How are you travelling?

In the time of COVID 19

Well, of course you are not travelling. Like me you are probably self-isolating. But, I have received a few texts and emails asking me just this question; “How are you travelling?”

So, I started to wonder whether this is a universal expression or just another piece of Australian slang. From my little bit of research it seems that it is specific to Australia. 

“How are you travelling” does not refer to transport! It doesn’t relate to actual travel. It means “how are you?” It is usually (though not always) used when “how are you?” is being asked with concern rather than as a casual greeting — e.g. if you know the person you are speaking with has recently had a death in the family, struggled through some other hardship, or is working to get established in a new job, you might ask, “how are you travelling?” In these days, it is asking how someone is managing during the coronavirus isolation.

What do we turn to now?

Like most other people I have a list somewhere of all the things I am need to do “when I have time” and now, during this period of isolation, the time has come.  But, there is only so much sorting out of the linen cupboard and cleaning of the pantry that can be done. And then, happiness, I feel like I am on holidays! I go for a walk in the mornings closely monitoring ‘social distancing’, have a leisurely breakfast, read the paper in the sunshine while enjoying my morning coffee. I do the crossword and I check in with family and friends but then what? When I thought about this question I got a bit overwhelmed by the possibilities and, being me, I made a list and tried to establish a bit of routine in the day. My passion is travel so I have decided am going to make travel related activities my main game.

Languages

We will travel again at some future date and now is the perfect time to prepare for our next trip by learning a few basic phrases in the language of the next country we plan to visit. Or, brush up on that old school days French or Indonesian or Spanish. By just doing 20 minutes daily of Duolingo you will make remarkable progress. There are plenty of other Apps that will also get you started. But, I like Duolingo and it is free (unless you upgrade to the Premium version).

Photographs

Out there in my garage are plastic boxes full of photograph albums, loose photographs and even slides. If I don’t go through them and get them organised now I might as well bin them because I can’t imagine when I am going to have this much free time again.

I know that amongst the travel photographs there are also opera and theatre programs, pamphlets from museums and galleries and postcards bought as souvenirs.   I will relive many happy travels as I sort through them and that will keep me happy for many hours. Maybe I will even get around to scanning some old photographs and turning them into photobooks?  

Books – old and new

I like to read books associated with the place to which I am travelling be they history, local authors, biographies or a good novel. And, there are plenty of unread books sitting on the shelves, piled on tables and stacked beside the bed waiting to be read.

I also have a Lonely Planet guide to almost every place I have visited and maps and atlases and catalogues galore. Indeed, the very thought makes me excited about the prospect of sorting through my bookshelves. So much so that I am putting that at the top of my ‘to do’ list.

Rearranging this book case makes me realise the extent to which books about Italy dominate my shelves. Perhaps they should become they will form a topic for another post?

Rearranging the items in this book case made me realise the extent to which books about Italy dominate my book cases. Perhaps they will form the basis of another post??

In my old fashioned filing cabinet I keep a folder of book reviews, especially those about travel books. Sometimes I seek those books out in the local library especially when I want to read them prior to a trip. I prefer to buy books form the local independent book store but, during these times, I am glad to be able to buy books on-line. For example, I recently read a review of The Map Tour: A History of Tourism Told Through Rare Maps (by Hugh Thomson). Ever optimistic I still plan to visit Jordan sometime soon so, while published in 2014, Lawrence in Arabia: War, Deceit and the Making of the Modern Middle East (Scott Anderson) is on the list.

On the television

I can almost always find Michael Portillo and his train journeys somewhere on my television so, as I enjoy train travel I will check out where his Bradshaw is taking him next. I can also usually find David Attenborough in some exotic location. If I cannot find Rick Stein on free-to-air television I will surely find him somewhere on Netflix. I won’t mind watching his Mediterranean Escapes again. Nor will I mind re-watching Joanna Lumley’s Silk Road Adventure, that grandest and most challenging journey of a 7000 mile odyssey from Venice to the Chinese border along what was the ancient Silk Road. Oh, to travel light and look as glamorous as she does! I wish!

Movies

There are any number of travel movies, some quite old, well worth watching. If you are learning a new language then try watching movies in that language, with sub-titles if necessary.  Or, documentaries.  Two fabulous documentaries that I have watched recently (on Netflix) are Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown which takes you to lesser-known places and explores the culture and the food. The delicious and exotic foods completely captured me. The other was a complete surprise; Losing Sight of Shore. It is about four women friends who travel from California to Australia in a rowboat! Extraordinary! Crazy!  “Their journey is harrowing, emotional, beautifully shot, and well worth the watch”.

Cooking

When travelling I often sign up for a walking tour focussed on local foods and cuisines. I have done these tours throughout Italy, and in Belgrade, Paris, Lisbon, Tehran and various other places. They are a great way to meet other people, shop for local foods and – usually – eat and drink along the way.

Like here, at Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon.

If I really enjoy the food, the country and the culture I usually buy a recipe book although – generally – I wait until I get home before I buy it rather than carry it around with me. Flicking through these recipe books is, for me, a wonderful way to relive past travels, meals and friendships. And that usually results in a frenzy of cooking. Cooler weather has arrived in Australia so, this morning, I made a fabulous looking Greek Moussaka. I hope it tastes as good as it smells.

What does all this tell me?

Australia’s borders remain closed and it is clear that I won’t be travelling any time soon. I have often wondered – and people often ask – what will I do when I am no longer travelling? Sooner or later the money will run out, the bones will get creakier, or the challenges of world health and safety will become too challenging. What then? Well, now I think that I know. I have never been one to get terribly bored. There is always something to read, see, make or find out about.

I think that when the inevitable happens I will quite enjoy the opportunity to read all those books piling up at home or neatly stacked in libraries, watch documentaries about faraway places that I didn’t get to, listen to concerts and watch opera on-line to re-live magic moments in those gorgeous opera houses around the world. It is enticing but I am not ready for it yet. I am starting to get itchy feet and look forward to travelling again sometime soon

Welcome to Baby Boomers Travel Solo

Hullo, my name is Gaye and I love to travel. I am a baby boomer living in a beautiful part of the world – Newcastle on the east coast of Australia.

Working harbour in Newcastle NSW Australia,

For the past two decades I have travelled (mostly) on my own. During this time I have noticed an increase in the number of women in the baby boomer age range travelling alone.

A little bit of research has confirmed my observations. We are the largest generational group in history. The youngest baby boomers will turn 65 in 2029. There are 76.4 million baby boomers in the USA, 52% of whom are women. In Australia, where I live, the numbers are a bit harder to find but my best guess is that in a population of 24 million, around 2 million baby boomers are women. Nearly 60% of solo travellers are women. That’s us.

The kids have grown up; we have worked hard and saved a bit of money; we haven’t got a partner or he/she doesn’t want to travel. If we haven’t yet travelled solo we are almost certainly thinking about it. Most of us are pretty media savvy nowadays so we get on the internet and type in something like “travel, solo, senior” and, voilà, here we are!

As we think about it we ask ourselves ‘how’, ’where’, ‘can I afford it’, ‘will I be safe/lonely/lost …’? And a multitude of other questions. I will try and answer some of those questions here. And, when I am travelling I will give you some updates about where I am , how I am travelling and what I am learning.

I hope that by sharing my experiences, guides, tips and photos I encourage you to get up and go and that I can help you with your preparations.

If there is anything you would particularly like to hear about or, you have something you want to share then please email me on babyboomerstravelsolo@gmail.com.

Wishing you lots of happy adventures!

Gaye

Travelling baby boomer

“Most of us have dreamed of doing it: taking off on our own to explore the world. Solo travel is about embracing freedom, doing exactly what you want and meeting new people along the way”. See www.traveller.com.au/spread-your-wings

Travelling solo: Will I be lonely?

This is one of the most common questions I am asked. And, the honest answer is yes, more than likely, there are times you will feel lonely. But, rest assured, travelling solo does not automatically mean you will be lonely!

I have been travelling solo for more than twenty years but there are times when I still feel lonely. On the other hand, I realise that I quite enjoy solitude which is very different from loneliness. Nevertheless, sometimes, quite unexpectedly, I am hit by a bout of “what am I doing here on my own”, “why don’t I just go home now”. It usually occurs when I am tired or I have been pushing myself a little too hard. Fortunately I have learned a few ways of dealing with it. After all, I didn’t come all this way to sit in my room feeling sorry for myself!

When I arrive …

My favourite hotel in Rome, Colonna
Palace. There is something comforting about being greeted on arrival, the familiarity of a hotel room and a buffet breakfast amongst other people next morning.

The day I arrive at my destination can be tough; jet-lagged, in unfamiliar territory and disoriented. This is when I most doubt the sanity of travelling alone. So, I like to stay in a hotel when I first arrive even if I move to an apartment or Airbnb soon after. I prefer smaller friendlier hotels and I book the nicest room I can afford. As soon as possible I try and get out for a walk, get some fresh air and get my bearings. Often I take the “big Red Bus” tour when I arrive for the first time in a strange city. It helps me to get the feel of a place. And, even in this digital age, I like to visit the local tourist office to find out what’s on while I am there. Almost inevitably, I feel better next day.

Staying healthy

Believe me, it is really miserable when you are travelling solo and you feel unwell.  Being physically below par is a sure way of bringing on a bout of loneliness. It is really important to be “trip ready” before you leave home. Go the gym and build up a bit of muscle tone so that you can manage your luggage. And, don’t put your back at risk by over-packing! Get a Fitbit (or similar) and walk longer distances so you build up some stamina. Make sure you pack all essential medication. And, be kind to yourself. There will be days when you are tired and maybe aching all over. That’s OK – you don’t have to be out all day every day! When this happens I remind myself that – ‘at my age’ – it is OK to go back to my room and have a nap, treat myself to a massage, or, if I can, go for a swim. One of the great benefits of solo travel is that you alone set the pace, decide how to spend the day, what time to eat and what time to sleep! Acknowledge that right at that moment you need a rest and remind yourself that tomorrow is another day.

Curiosity

Curiosity is a great antidote to loneliness. Fortunately, I am, by nature, curious. And I enjoy learning. About all and sundry. So, when I find myself on my own, especially in the evenings, I can occupy myself for ages on my iPad with what I call ’research’. Sometimes I do this in the hotel lobby or bar rather than stay in my room. I also read books that I have downloaded or brought with me, preferably about the place I am in. Sometimes I even watch a movie on Netflix, especially if I can find a movie or documentary set in, or about, my current location.

Taking pictures

I take plenty of pictures during the day either with my iPhone or my handbag size camera. But I don’t have a selfie stick! I loathe them and sometimes when a person poses, with a selfie stick, in front of a painting I want to see I have homicidal thoughts! I do sometimes ask people to take a photograph of me and I almost always accept if someone offers to do so. Occasionally this results in a nice conversation. I often share these pics on social media or send them direct to family and friends and I love it when they get back to me promptly to share the moment with me. I also use my alone time in the evenings to upload my photos to my iPad, identify the photos and put them into folders which makes it very much easier to sort them to put in to a photobook when I return home. 

I make a Photobook after most of my travels. It is a great way to sort and select my trip record from amongst the hundreds of photos and my journal notes. They are fun to make.

Keeping a journal

Each day I return to my journal to make notes about where I have been and what I have done. I can always find the factual details in guide books and on-line when I get home but I like to make a record of how the day was for me; what I saw, where I ate, how I felt and what I have learned. I carry my small notebook with me and often do this while I am having a coffee or a glass of wine or while just sitting in a quiet spot. I do need to have a use for the gorgeous notebooks I like to buy when I travel! Besides, a journal can be a very good friend when you are feeling a little bit low and lonely.

Meeting other travellers

When you’re travelling alone, you need to make an effort to talk to other people; families, couples, children, not just other solo travellers. Sometimes, a smile is sufficient to open a conversation but it isn’t always easy, and there are sometimes real language barriers. But, it’s worth trying.  I have had some really rewarding experiences as the result of a casual conversation – a shared meal, a joint excursion, or trusting someone to mind my things while I go to the bathroom! If you join a class e.g. cooking or language you are sure to meet and talk with other people. At the same time we need to be mindful that not all travellers will want to strike up a conversation – they might simply prefer to be on their own.

Taking tours

Small group tours such as local walking tours, food tours, and guided gallery tours are a great way of doing things in the company of others. It is a good idea to do a bit of research and read the reviews before you choose a tour. Trip Advisor allows you to filter your search for ‘solo’ traveller. Being a baby boomer I also try and get an idea of the age groups being catered for. Travellers in small group tours are easier to strike up a conversation with. These days, I come across a lot of younger women travelling solo and it is always interesting to talk with them about their experiences.

A cooking class at Palazzo Margherita in Matera (Basilicata, Italy) was a wonderful way to meet other people and enjoy a meal with company.

Dining alone

Feeling comfortable when eating alone is one of the hardest things to master. Even some die-hard solo travellers find dining alone difficult. But, you have to eat and the always food tastes better if you enjoy the experience! Some people think there is some sort of stigma associated with eating alone. This is so wrong! Alone does not mean lonely. Unaccompanied is not unhappy. It just takes practice and it does get easier. Start with a leisurely breakfast in your hotel or nearby cafè where you can do a bit of people watching. Find somewhere nice for lunch – away from the more touristy areas – somewhere you can rest your feet, have chat to the staff or other diners at a communal table, and try something new. In the evening I sometimes eat a snack or light meal at a bar. Sometimes I enjoy a picnic – cheese, bread, and fruit – in my room but preferably on a terrace or, on a warm summer evening, in a nearby green space.

Back in my room

I find time alone back in my accommodation is a useful time to do the practical things. A bit of washing, a phone call home, fix my nails or wash my hair, map out the next days itinerary. While I do ‘chores’ I surround myself with my favourite music downloaded to my phone and played through my mini Bose speaker! That always helps. I am learning to paint with water colours and with a small travel set I can paint in the evenings.  Or, I try and learn a few words of the local language. Sometimes I just go to bed early and read which means that I can make an early start next day and be out and about next day before the crowds.

Finally …

If you feel really desperately unhappy then you should think about changing your plans. There is no point sticking to a plan if loneliness it is making you so miserable you just don’t want to carry on. But, before you think about giving up on solo travel please give some of the options I have suggested a chance to work.  I urge you not to rush back home too soon. It’s awfully tempting when you’re feeling terribly alone but give it some time. In most cases, the feeling will pass. And, as I always promise myself, tomorrow is another day waiting to be enjoyed and, truly, I usually feel heaps better next day. 

Travelling solo: Five Important Things to Think About Before You Get Going

There are lots of blogs and web sites telling you all sorts of things about travelling solo. But, some people are just beginning to think about it and are perhaps feeling a little overwhelmed by all the information and advice they are getting. So, here are a few things to think through before you start making the big decisions.  

You will find this book in almost any book store!

Where to?

Many of my chosen destinations spring from my avid reading. Some go back to my early years. I read “I went with Marco Polo” when I was about 12 or 13 years old and ever since, I have wanted to visit Tash Rabat in Kyrgyzstan. I haven’t been there yet but I still plan to get there one day. I also spend a lot of time talking to people about travel, reading travel books, surfing the web, researching destinations, plotting transport connections, comparing costs and checking out reviews (especially for accommodation and tours). I also check out the latest safety advice.  All of this before I commit to the destination decision, especially if it is a bit of the beaten track. I have a lot fun just finding out what is available.

Lately, I have been looking to avoid the overcrowded tourist hot spots and I’ve decided that Jordan is my destination in 2020.
https://www.worldnomads.com/explore/middle-east/jordan/preparing-for-jordan-6-tips-for-the-first-time-traveller

Why am I doing this?

What do I want to experience? What do I really like doing? The idea of ‘just getting away’ carries a sense of freedom but, at least, in the initial stages, I think you will find it a great deal more satisfying if you know why you want to ‘just get away’.  Are you looking for adventure? Walking? A retreat? Is it culture you are looking for – museums, concerts, opera, and galleries? Getting to know local people? Volunteering with an aid organisation? Photography? Focusing in on what you enjoy makes choosing your destination much easier. No point in heading to a beach resort when you would rather sit in a Parisian sidewalk cafe.

Ballooning over Capadoccia. One of the most fabulous things I have ever done!

What will I do?

What do I want to do? Stay in one place e.g. two weeks in Florence to learn Italian and just absorb the local scene? See as much of the country as I can like I did during three weeks in Turkey? Follow an opera season? Have a food experience e.g. in Greece. Watch an international sporting event? Visit the Game of Thrones film sites in Croatia? Walk through Spain? Cycle in Provence? Hire a car and driver to take you and a friend to a remote place like the Iranian desert. Trek in the Amazon, alone with a guide?

The more that you read, the more things you will know. The more you learn, the more places you’ll go.”
– Dr. Seuss, I Can Read With My Eyes Shut

Will I travel alone, go with a friend or take a tour?

A hard but very rewarding day walking in the Plitvice Lakes area, Croatia. Something I couldn’t do on my own so I took a day tour. Great company and well worth the effort.

Decide whether you really are ready, willing and able to do it all alone. A few years ago I travelled through Eastern Europe using public transport and, despite all the prior planning, it was a great deal more difficult than I ever imagined! But, I have the greatest memories especially about the kindness of the people I met along the way.  Would anybody I know want to travel with me to my chosen destination? And, would I want to travel with them? Maybe take a tour? How much will the ‘extras’ cost? I don’t want to come home to a credit card statement that puts me off ever travelling again!

When is the best time to go?

Some times of the year are better than others depending on where you are going and what you want to do. It’s obvious that if you want to ski you go in the winter. And, if you want to go to the beach, you go in summer. But, these are often peak tourist times and will almost certainly crowded and $$$$. Search out less popular destinations e.g. when the autobahns in Germany are grinding to a halt think about skiing in Slovenia or in Golden BC (Canada). If you are thinking of heading to Europe then I suggest that you plan for the shoulder season (April through mid-June or late September into October). As Rick Steves says; “This allows you to avoid the most exhausting things about European travel: crowds and the heat of summer, and it saves money, too.”

Driving up the Icefields Parkway from Calgary to beautful Banff and Lake Louise. September 2015. Spectacular scenery and clear crisp days.

How will I travel?

If you are an experienced solo traveller you will already have a good idea about how you prefer to travel. But, for others there are some basic considerations such as your level of confidence, how fit and well you are & how long you want to be away. Be honest with yourself. You can start by calling in to a travel agent, collecting some brochures and having a chat.

And then just do it.

Don’t dilly dally! We baby boomers haven’t got forever! This is about you and what you want to do. It’s your time and it’s your call. Move on to the planning and packing stages!

Women Travel Solo in Literature. Part 1.

“For centuries it was frowned upon for women to travel without escort, chaperone, or husband. To journey was to put oneself at risk, not only physically but morally as well. A little freedom could be a dangerous thing”.

Thus begins Mary Morris in her introduction to The Illustrated Virago Book of Women Travellers (1994). And as Jane Robinson points out in Wayward Women (1990), “Women travellers have been writing about their journeys for sixteen centuries, after all” – but, of course, they rarely travelled alone! Robinson goes on goes on to point out that a female who travelled alone was a strange creature in any age – “Although by the nineteenth century perhaps not quite as shocking as before”.

About twenty years ago, when I first started out travelling solo, I looked for books written by women about their travels. They were not so easily found then and I had to seek them out in second hand bookshops. I wasn’t looking for what has been described as “the memoirs of middle-aged ladies in tweeds and galoshes, who had nursed their parents, or housekept for their brothers, and then emerged from their chrysalis of the put-upon spinster into exotic moths and butterflies” (Therese St Aubin de Teràn in Indiscreet Journeys, 1989).

I was was more interested in The Ladies of the Grand Tour (Brian Dolan 2003) which tells of the incredible women of Georgian society who ‘escaped’ to experience the wonders and pitfalls of Continental travel. But, really, I was wanting to read the accounts written by the women themselves. I was looking for adventurers and explorers. Women who did ‘different’ things. Happily the Victorian era saw a surge in the popularity of women travellers, with adventurers such Gertrude Bell publishing travelogues, and inspiring others to follow in their hobnailed footsteps.

I travelled with a friend through Iran in 2016. Just us a guide/driver. Never once did we feel u safe even when we wandered out in the evening on our own. The locals wre invariably friendly and welcoming inviting us into their home or to join their picnic.

When I started thinking about travelling to Turkey (2015) and Iran  2016) I began, as I often do, by searching out books written by and about women who had travelled in these countries.

Along the way I met some tremendously interesting women! Generally, I was introduced to them by other women who, for one reason or another, had started combing through books by and about women travellers and put together what might be described as an anthology. As often as not they described the writing of their book as “a journey of sorts”. One of my favourite such titles is The Blessings of a Good Thick Skirt by Irish journalist Mary Russell (1986).

Another is, Dreaming of East (2005) by Barbara Hodgson. It is a wonderful book, richly illustrated with drawings and photographs depicting “western women and the exotic allure of the orient”. Hodgson tells the stories of women who ventured east into the remote reaches of Turkey, Syria, Libya and Iraq and explores the enduring fascination that the area “now known as the Middle East” has exerted on women of the West and the freedom that it offered”. Extraordinary words in this day and age!

Lady Mary Montague Wortley. From St Margarets Commuity Website.

The oldest of my traveling friends is Lady Mary Wortley Montagu (1689-1762), said to be the first woman to have travelled abroad for the sake of curiosity. A young man, meeting Lady Mary in Rome for the first time in 1740, wrote that she is “one of the most extraordinary shining characters in the world; but she shines like a comet; she is irregular and always wandering”. Her travel letters from Turkey provide intimate details of the lives of the women in the harem. At the age of 49 she left her ambassador husband – and England – to pursue the man she loved to Italy. That didn’t work out but she stayed on “the continent” for the next twenty plus years “with an assortment of escorts”. Phew! All of that in the eighteenth century! Brave woman!

The “most phenomenal” of my friends is Gertrude Bell (1868-1926) who travelled through the Middle East in the early 1900s. She is colourfully described as “surrounded only by Arab men, speaking almost no English, sleeping in tents, riding a camel or horse through dangerous regions, risking robbery and even death” (Janet Wallach, Desert Queen, 1996). Georgina Howell uses “the writings of the Queen of the Desert” to present Bell in a somewhat different light, as an “intelligence expert, army major, and adviser for the British Armed Forces in the Middle East” (Gertrude Bell. A Woman in Arabia, 2015).  Seemingly she was the brains behind Lawrence of Arabia and, today, it is often acknowledged that she drew ‘the lines in the sand’ for Winston Churchill.

Gertrude Bell. Hulton Archive.

“Few such moments of exhilaration can come as that which stands at the threshold of wild travel. The gates of the enclosed garden are thrown open … with a wary glance to the right and left you step forth, and, behold! The immeasurable world”. Gertrude Bell, 1907.

One of my longer term friends has been Freya Stark (1893 – 1993), who wrote several books on her travels in the Middle East and Afghanistan as well as autobiographical works and essays. Indeed, she is my heroine!

“To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the most pleasant sensations in the world. You are surrounded by adventure”. (Baghdad Sketches first published 1932)

Freya Stark in 1923.

Freya Stark spent some 40 years travelling by herself in the Middle East. I am amazed that she was able not only to survive traveling in a difficult part of the world during, roughly, 1928 and 1970, but also that she lived to the age of 100! Some years ago I made a pilgrimage to her home in Asolo, a picturesque village about 80kms from Venice and so wished I had been able to meet her in real life. Freya Stark grew up in England and Italy and spoke both languages fluently. She writes that, as a girl, she was given a copy of “The Arabian Nights”, a collection of adventure, drama and romance in the Middle East, and that this fuelled her fascination for the East. I tell myself that she would be pleased to know that so many women are still inspired by her writings even though the Middle East is no longer the place she knew during her travels. Nevertheless, to this day she remains my inspiration to get to know the MIddle East behind our current headlines.

“To walk alone in 19th-century Paris George Sand had to disguise herself in men’s clothing”

Packing is the pits!

It is certainly a challenge! For almost everyone I know. That’s why there are so many magazine articles, websites, and blogs talking about packing. Even though I have been travelling solo for nearly twenty, I still read every article I find about packing including those with lists of “essentials”. They can be helpful but I am yet to be convinced that anyone has mastered this art.  Ultimately, you have to make your own decisions based on where you are going and what sort of trip it will be. It’s self-evident that packing for travel involving lots of concerts and fine dining will be vastly different from a trekking expedition. Similarly, winter travel v. summer; two weeks v. two months, trekking boots v pretty sandals.

The only real rule; pack light!

Travelling by overnight train from Madrid to Lisbon. I had to be able to get my luggage on and off the train quickly. And, it had to be accommodated in this tiny cabin.

Regardless of when or where or you are going, I can assure you that there is only one real rule; travel light! Perhaps it is different if you are going on a luxury cruise but tht would be the only exception. After many years of travelling for four to six weeks at a time I have learned to travel with 1x 55cm case which I check in + a smallish carry-on which hooks over the bigger bag or a small back pack + a medium sized cross-body bag. It can be done – and it is getting easier, even for winter. I only have to remind myself that I need to be able to manage it myself through the cobblestones, on and off the trains and, sometimes, up a couple of flights of stairs to quickly focuses my mind and reduce minimise what I am taking.

Plan well

To avoid over packing you need to plan well. I make lots of lists. But, beware of doing so much planning that you become paralysed by indecision! If you pack at the last minute there is a serious risk of over packing (and forgetting something important). On the other hand, if you pack too far in advance chances are you will forget what you have put in and end up duplicating things. Access to laundry facilities is the key to packing light so it is something I look for when I am booking accommodation.

What’s the weather like?

My next trip, departing Australia mid spring, is for three months – late autumn and into winter in the northern hemisphere. I started thinking about what I will take when I booked the flight three months ago! As the time gets closer I put things out on a spare bed as I think of them – and, most likely, I will not take half of them! I have been scanning articles like “what to wear in London in November” and examining long-range forecasts on reliable websites. I know it is going to be getting cold so my lightweight down coat with hood is an essential. Layers will be absolutely critical.

Keep the colours simple

I need be very disciplined and decisive about colours in order to avoid the “oh, that pink looks nice under that grey so I might take that…” Or, “I might need that green dress” Don’t! Decide on two or three colours and stick with them! For this trip those colours are black, grey and navy. Probably a bit boring but definitely functional. Scarves will add a splash of colour plus warmth.  I will also take a couple of bold – not expensive – pieces of costume jewellery. I know for sure – and accept reluctantly – that by the end of three months I will be very tired of wearing the same clothes and won’t want to bring them home!! That might help me clear some space to bring home a few souvenirs and gifts.

Maximise your luggage space

Packing cubes will save space and make it a whole lot easier to find whatever it is you are looking for. Thanks to mappingmegan.com for this lovely illustration of just how organised packing can be.

I roll my clothes and use packing cubes to keep things “grouped”. Toiletries, cosmetics, hair products, body lotion etc. I keep to a minimum. Unless you are in some remote place all these things can be bought locally – and I quite enjoy browsing local supermarkets and shops. Shoes are my biggest challenge. My grandmother wore “sensible walking shoes’ and I have had a complete aversion to them all my life. I had a change of heart recently when I realised that one of the great things about being a baby boomer right now is that there are lots of nicer looking practical shoes on the market. I have arthritis in my feet and I need to wear them with orthotics. That’s OK during the day but I still don’t want to wear them out at night. Fortunately I have also been able to find some nicer looking sneakers for evening. They are lace up and silver! Another thing about being a baby boomer is that I no longer find being “fashionable” quite so important. I like to be reasonably presentable and to try and blend in as far as possible but, more importantly, I want to be comfortable! Three pairs of shoes is an absolute maximum. Two is better. That’s it for clothes and shoes.

All the extra “essentials”

It’s ‘all the other stuff” that takes up room and adds weight. For example, I pack what some might consider a rather odd assortment of ‘housekeeping’ items – a fold-up shopping bag, a Swiss army knife, a travelling clothesline, some laundry powder (in a ziplock bag) plus a couple of pegs, a small torch, some sticky tape and a texta-pen (in case I want to post something home which I usually do), and a small waterproof “lunch bag” for taking sandwiches or other food on long train trips. I also pack a mini speaker so that I can play my own music in my room.

In my carry-on luggage

In my carry-on luggage I take a warm wrap and a change of clothes (just in case my luggage doesn’t arrive).  I also take enough of any essential medicines to see me through the first week together with the original prescriptions. In my checked luggage I pack sufficient prescription medicine to last my entire trip. I take on-board a spare pair of glasses and a copy of the prescription. Plus a pen and notebook, earphones, some moisturiser and basic cosmetics, my ‘phone and a camera + the necessary adaptors and chargers.  In my carry-on luggage you will also find a hard copy book which I will leave somewhere along the way. I download guides books and any additional reading materials. If I get desperate I can usually find an English language section in a bookshop.

Of course, I carry all the necessary travel documents with me (and a copy of everything in my luggage).

Good luck! I will let you know how I get on packing for three months in luggage I can manage comfortably on my own.

Vale Evelyn Hannon: Journeywoman

Evelyn Hannon once wrote:

“If you’re an older adventuress, this is an absolutely wonderful time in your life to be travelling. In most cultures, your age brings respect. Children will gravitate to you. Local women will be protective, you’ll suffer less from pesky unsolicited male advances, and your travel budget absolutely expands with all the lovely discounts your age group is offered. The possibilities are endless. Take advantage, ladies. You’ve earned the right”.

I have left that bright red type-face in the text because that was Evelyn – her glasses and her boots and a big red love heart!  Sadly, Evelyn passed away in April this year aged 79.

Travel well dear Evelyn.

Evelyn Hannon was the Founder and CEO of Journeywoman and has been a long time inspiration for me. As best I can recall, Evelyn was the first ever travel blogger. In the early 1990s she began writing a newsletter encouraging women to travel. I loved receiving those emails loaded with tips and stories about travel as a single woman.   In 1997, when most of us had never heard the word, she converted it to a blog. I was thrilled when I discovered I could find Journeywoman on-line. It quickly became my “go-to” site for advice and information. Evelyn was my inspiration and, not surprisingly, Journeywoman.com soon became “the premier travel resource for women” with 55,000 subscribers in over 100 countries.  

I admired the fact that Evelyn maintained “the look” of Journeywoman even as it became more cluttered and dated. Journeywoman.com was like an old friend even though, as someone wrote, “it still looks like it was designed on a Gestetner”. I laughed when I read that one of the guests at Evelyn’s funeral referred affectionately to the website as “the shag carpet of websites.”

Evelyn was a self-described “adventuress”. She could turn the everyday of shopping in a supermarket into an adventure. And, through her, I discovered the fun of having a picnic in my hotel room. I had long hoped to meet her and we corresponded about possibilities but it never quite worked out. But, I felt I knew her. Her writing emanated welcome and warmth. I greatly admired her incredible capacity for meeting new people and making friends as she travelled.

Evelyn’s family have announced that Carolyn Ray has acquired Journeywoman Enterprises Inc. and is now the CEO and Publisher of Journeywoman.com. I imagine that the site will change over time, as it probably should, but Evelyn will always remain the warm and trusted friend who has been part of my life for more than twenty years

Top destinations for solo female travellers

I found the following article on a website called WYZA which offers content particularly useful to older Australians, including a travel section.

More women are travelling solo, according to HostelWorld.

The hotel booking website’s figures indicate the number of female solo bookings grew by 45 percent between 2015 and 2017 – five percent more than their male counterparts.

So where are all the women going?

Here’s the hottest destinations for female solo travellers in 2018. 

You will be surprised.  

  1. Cuba
  2. Nicaragua
  3. South Africa
  4. Bulgaria
  5. Guatemala
  6. Sri Lanka
  7. Macedonia
  8. Portugal
  9. Tanzania
  10. Romania

Feeling inspired? 

Written by Alison Godfrey. Republished with permission of MyDiscoveries. https://www.wyza.com.au/

Well, I was certainly surprised! And inspired. There are a few on that list that I haven’t visited. So, I am going to do a bit of research and figure out when I can go where!

Common courtesies at the local markets

Who doesn’t love a local market? Local people doing everyday stuff in picturesque surroundings. Little treasures to be found. Fresh fruit and vegetables galore. Great picture opportunities.

But … there are some common courtesies to be observed. The vendors are there on a regular basis. For you, it might be a new and wonderful sight but for them it is ‘same old, same old’. They see tourists every week. The basic rule is, always, to be respectful.

Roadside market in Turkey where local tourists bargain vigorously.

Taking pictures

Of course you can take pictures in the markets! It’s a public place and it is colourful.  But do it thoughtfully. Don’t crowd the space around a stall. Don’t hang about for ages photographing the beautifully presented fruit and vegetables and then walk away without acknowledging the stall holder and, better still, buying something. The worse thing I ever saw was someone rearranging the produce before photographing it!

Ask permission

Bread seller in Mahan , Iran, who was delighted to have her picture taken. The bread w hich we ate while sitting with the woman and her husband was fresh, still warm and delicious.

If you want to photograph a particular stall, or the vendor, ask permission! And, if they say no then smile, say thank you, and walk away. Do not simply point your camera and snap away no matter how subtle you think you are being. And do not expect every vendor to be thrilled to feature in your selfie! The simple courtesy of asking permission can lead to some wonderful experiences! And, be aware, in some places people dress in local costume and place themselves along the tourist routes waitng to be photgraphed – and paid!

Photographing children?

Children in Vietnam
On a happy visit to a school in Vietnam I took pictures of these children and their teacher and was able to leave copies which subsequent visitors told me are still pinned to the wall.

This is a tricky and sensitive question. In most countries it is quite legal to photograph children in public without their or their parents’ consent, but this can be regarded as a suspicious and inappropriate activity. If you are going to put it on-line then that’s another step and it raises ethical issues. Frankly, I would not want other people photographing my children or grandchildren without permission and I don’t photograph other people’s children unless I have permission or I am specifically asked to do so.  I suggest that, if you are travelling in remote areas or very poor countries, carry an ‘instamatic’ with you so that you can leave some photos behind.  They sometimes are treasured for years.

Spend money

My friend Judy doing a bit of serious shopping at a bazaar in Iran. It was good to have the assistance of our guide Ali when doing the negotiations. The negotiations were expected and enjoyed – by all!

Yes, you might be on a tight budget but this is how market vendors make their living. It doesn’t cost much to buy a couple of pieces of fruit or a small trinket to take home. It’s the least you can do in return for the pleasure of being there plus some ‘happy snaps’. And, if your cruise ship or tour bus won’t allow you to bring food on board then give it to someone in the street on your way back to your destination.

Don’t crowd the stall

The worst offenders here are groups – sometimes led by a guide who should know better. A dozen people crowded around a single stall turns potential customers away. I once saw the vendor unable to return to her position through all the pushing and shoving to take photographs of her beautifully embroidered blankets – and, as the crowd lurched away I heard a woman say loudly, “they are so beautiful but too expensive”. Really? 

Please do not touch!

‘Ne pas toucher’, ‘non toccare’, ‘ekki snerter’. It all means the same! Do not touch. Why do people do this? Pick up a piece of fabric. Put it down. Pick up a peach. Put it down. If 25 people pass by a stall and pick up the same piece of cloth and then put it down it stands to reason that piece of cloth will be grubby before the end of the day … and it will not sell. If three people pick up the same peach and then put it down chances are it will be bruised and, more than likely, carry germs! 

Thank you!

It is a universally appreciated expression. So, please do remember to say “thank you”, preferably in the local language.

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